Surfing Arroyo Secco / No Gas No Problem
December 2019 Ok I need to open by saying its very, very rare for things to go as planned in Mexico —especially on the coast. Living in a place where none of your local friends have cell-phones and you can walk into any store or restaurant sin camiseta and no one bats an eye; its no wonder that punctuality and plans are more fluid. Only guy in the water wearing zinc I was suppose to meet my friend Chopper (a local surf and skim-boarding legend) at my house bright and early to load up our boards and head up the coast to catch some olas. I woke up slipped on my board shorts and waited for a half hour until I ran out of patience then headed to the local coffee shop “La Bruja” (la jefa of this rad little tienda is Allison — a groovy, loca, ex-pat surfer who hooks up the free coffee in exchange for some celeb shifts behind the espresso machine). After about my second cup of coffee I spotted Chopper walking down the street shoeless and surfboard in your hand, “Pe...